India Daze

Thursday, October 28, 2004

Red Socks Shake the Curse....

Now all attention is on the Chicago Cubs. Bet you wonder why this matters as I sit here in India? Well, it doesn't really. But, my temporary abode came complete with cable tv (this was not something that I searched high and low for), and this morning I was able to watch game 4 in it's entirety (moon day, no yoga practice). Even had a few people over for the fun. It's interesting watch baseball over coffee.

Last night, Tina of Tina's restaurant (popular breakfast spot in Gokulam) had a special dinner as she usually does on nights before moon days. The theme was middle eastern...she made falafel, humous, a tabouleh-like salad, yogurt sauce, chapati's and finished it off with ice cream with chocolate sauce. This was a nice break from the indian food I have been enjoying. It was also a birthday celebration of sort for Youngblood Roche...the son of the well known and amazing Ashtanga teacher David Roche, and someone I have had the pleasure of getting to know better over the last several weeks. A fun evening indeed.

Yesterday after practice, I walked around the "old neighborhood" (Laxmipuram) as they call it...near where the old yoga shala used to be. I wanted to see where the yogi's used to hang out...it's a very charming area. After a late breakfast at three sisters, Harini (one of said 3 sisters) pointed me in the general direction of the old yoga shala. I took my time getting there, and passed by some familiar landmarks...and finally came upon guruji's old place. The only way one would know is by the very small sign on the front of the building. I've heard so many stories about this place...and to think of the people that had been here...and had come back so many times...well, I just had to take a moment...I'll leave it at that. I will surely be spending more time in that area in the coming weeks.

Yesterday, I traded in my scooter for a newer one. The battery in the old one was almost dead, and Shiva gave me this newer one as soon as it was available. What a difference! It starts right up in the morning...has much better shocks (my bum is thankful) and appears to have better acceleration...not that it matters all that much here. I have this ritual at night...since I have no place to store my scooter, I leave it a Shiva's house overnight (not far from my place). So, at nightfall, I drop my scooter off and walk home. That walk is so nice...you hear the sounds of the neighborhood...same dog barks at me every night, I hear that same family chanting...perhaps before/after dinner...pass the same families out for their nightly walk, smell the aroma of countless dinners being prepared, usually pass a few other yoga students...and lately I have had to hurry to beat the nightly rain shower. Once I'm home, I'll read for a while and then off to sleep. Sleeping is quite easy here...and I seem to dream more often as well.

Thanks again for following along.


Saturday, October 23, 2004

The Crowds are Gone

Yesterday...Saturday...was the last day of the Dasara festival here in Mysore. Mysore, a city of roughly a million people, ballooned to an estimated 3 million at one point during the 10 day gig. That's just a rumor...can't confirm it...but it sure seemed accurate. Anyhow, there was a big precession yesterday...with painted elephants, floats...the whole deal. And I think just about eveyone that lives here, and then some, were downtown to see it. You could buy tickets and have seats, or you could just go and find a place to stand. Since I didn't know about the ticket thing, I had thoughts of finding a place to stand and watch. So, I rode my scooter toward downtown, left it in a place where I knew I could find it, and started walking. Steadily, the streets grew more crowded...and soon, almost too crowded to even move ahead. Soon I realized it was hopeless...walked back to the scooter and rode back to Gokulam. Some students that had seats said it was nice, but after 5 hours of watching, had to have the police help them get through the crowd so they could get home. Maybe next time.

The weather has been quite pleasant...cool breezy nights...sometimes a little rain, overcast mornings, and sunny, warm afternoons. This makes yoga practice all the more pleasant for this pitta (one that is usually hot anyway, sweats easily, among other things). Wonder what it will be like when it heats up?

Now that the city is less crowded, I'll likely make more trips into the city. Will do more sight seeing, eat at different places, and check out the markets. The streets will still be full of people, but I think the energy will be different. I'll have more to share later.

Wednesday, October 20, 2004

Cow Pies

...are everywhere, which makes sense since there are cows everywhere. Well, I stepped in my first one today. I was in a different part of Mysore...Laxmipuram, and was walking around "tourist style", i.e. not watching where I was going, when I noticed the softness under my right foot. I suppose it won't be the last time this happens.

Back to Laxmipuram. This is where Guruji's old yoga shala is...he still owns it and returns often to offer puja in rememberance of his late wife. I was in that area for several reasons. First, to meet with Harini of "Three Sisters" for one of her famous massages...to have breakfast there after, and to become familiar with this neighborhood for future visits.

Harini uses an auyervedic (The science of life) technique to massage the body. She massages you with her feet. You are first covered in oil ( a tri-dosha balancing oil), and for an hour and a half massages your entire body with her feet...holding a rope above for balance. They say the feet are much more sensitive than the hands...and using one's own body weight can allow the therapist to go much deeper while using less energy. She immediately picked up on all of the areas of rigidity and imbalance in my body and worked those areas deeper...almost unbearable...but with wonderful benefit. After , you are led to a shower to wash the oil off, then into the next room for a meal. I had a huge fruit bowl with curd (yogurt), and muscelei...and wholemeal toast with jam. An excellent morning indeed. I will go back.

Yesterday went to see Kyun Hogaya Na...a Bollywood movie at the Lido theatre in Mysore. Cinema is huge here...in Mysore alone (a relatively small city by India standards) there are roughly 25 theatres. As I walked into the Lido, it was everything that was described to me...large, great sound system, comfortable with air conditioning...but it wasn't packed. Perhaps it was the time of day. Cinema is very affordable... the best seats in the balcony go for r's 35, but you can watch downstairs for as little as r's 8. Most movies are at least 3 hours long...with intermission. I need to see more...I find them quite entertaining...fun music, but the 3-4 hours takes some geting used to...I know I will though.

More sights...I've seen alot of new homes being built in Gokulam (the suburb of Mysore where the new yoga shala is). Most are made of brick or some sort of cement. As they are being built, there is a man assigned to watch over the house...day and night. That's right...he basically lives there. Usually a small brick hut, perhaps 8'x8', is built for him (and his family if he has one) to live in. Once the house is finished, the hut is taken down, and the bricks cleaned off for use later.

Always something new. I'll be back in a day or two.

Saturday, October 16, 2004

New pad

Yesterday I moved into a new place...a two bedroom apartment that I'll be sharing with a guy from Atlanta. The place has it all...nice big kitchen with fridge, TV (not that I'll be watching much), a bathroom off each bedroom, ceiling fans, plenty of furniture, access to the roof...and as I discovered this morning, huge cockroaches that seem to be able to fly. This, I am told, is unavoidable here...but I'd still rather not see them. I swear if three or four of these things teamed up, they could probably take me! So, as soon as Nilgiri's market (local supermarket...has everything, but kind of expensive) opened this morning, I was there buying the stuff that takes care of these things...hope it works. If not, we'll just have to become friends.

Seems as though a whole new batch of people have arrived this week...and seems like equally as many are leaving. The shala was crowded as usual this morning for the talk-through. I tried to stay and watch the intermediate talk-through class just after...again more this week than last...but some dude decided he was more important than me and stood directly in my (and others) line of sight. I didn't feel like dealing with it, so stepped outside and had my coconut (many people don't know how to move out of the way after getting theirs...hard to comprehend). There's a dog that is always out by the coconut guy...looks like it's mother mated with a rat...so we call it "Rat-dog"...I think it's also been referred to as "frankendoggie"...both names equally fitting. Also, I've seen old pictures of the coconut guy...he wears the same shirt to this day. I'll try to figure out how to post pics one of these days.

Most recent new animal sightings...a heard of sheep, a couple of monkeys (one had lost a hand somehow), and more cows...one decided to rest in the middle of an extremely busy street...just how it is here. I love it.

Comments welcome guys...love to hear what's happening with you.


Tuesday, October 12, 2004

Two days off

Today (Wednesday) is some special holiday, at least according to Sharath and Guruji, so no yoga today. And tomorrow is a new moon, so, no yoga again. Now that my internal clock seems to have adjusted to being here, I'll try to make the best of these days.

I'm still in temporary housing...I'll have to stop by Shiva's place to see if he's found anything. After that, I'd like to take the scooter to Laxmipuram...where the old shala is. Up until the time the new shala opened, that's where the students lived/ate/shopped, etc. So, I'm going look around. Maybe eat at Aunty's, check out the Kaveri Lodge, and other local favorite spots. Maybe go to a movie...I've been told the theatres are very large, air conditioned, and have incredible sound systems because of the "musical" nature of Bollywood films. Many other students take longer day trips...but there's plenty of time for that later.

More sights/sounds and other things to share. I've notice that in the early morning you'll hear the "cry's" or "chants" coming from locals selling anything from flowers to fruits/vegetables. I don't know this for sure, but it seems that they are just making noise to announce their presence, and to tell what they are selling...sort of like the ice cream man at home with his bells. Also, there is the boy out in front of Tina's (local favorite breakfast spot for students...very western, very safe food...almost too western). The boy will put flowers on ALL of the scooters and expect rupee's when you return...mainly from the women. He is quite persistent...seems he is skipping out on school to learn "business" on the streets.

Also seems that many students will have dental work, medical check-up's and the like while visiting Mysore. My current housemate had braces put on yesterday...says the cost is about 1/10th of that at home, and the quality of work every bit as good. Seems everything costs less here...except if you are flying within the country and are not an Indian citizen...in which case, you can always use the train system. I plan to take advantage of these things as well.

All for now.


Sunday, October 10, 2004

Sleep is good

I think the travel/change in timezones/first practice...etc. finally caught up with me. Laid down for a short afternoon nap and 13 hours later it was time to wake up for morning practice. Ok, so I woke up once for about an hour to drink some water and eat a little. Seemed to work, I feel much better today. Yesterday's lunch was so good (Green Leaf), perhaps it was the good food that made me sleep so soundly.

Quite hot today...well, it's always hot, but seems more so today. The yoga shala was sweltering, guess I'd better get used to it. You meet so many people here. Today I met a rolfer...an american guy that has lived here for the past two years. His price is so reasonable that I decided to set 5 appointments with him...today was the first. I've always wanted to try rolfing...now I know why. The first session was fantastic...sure it will continue with the others.

Still trying to figure out where everything is around here. I have the scooter, so I am mobile and can venture out...which I will do in days to come. Amazing what you see around here...cows wandering, pigs, camels and dogs everywhere! Also children begging...some all dressed up, others can't afford to dress up...can't afford to do much. Something else I saw yesterday...at a relatively busy corner just outside of Gokulam...they were making the mortar...the cement used in holding bricks together. They take these big stones and pound them down to powder with sledge hammers...quiet laborous as one can imagine. This powder is mixed with water to make the mortar. The people doing this? Women...not just women...but about the smallest Indian women you will ever see. Blew me away.

It's mid-day now...I'm off to the market to pick up some things...will ride around a little more...then nap time! It's needed...really.

Guys...it's ok to post comments! (hint hint)

Friday, October 08, 2004

Road to Mysore...

I know, that title is quite cliche for yoga students traveling to Mysore, but I am literally referring to the road that leads from Bangalore to Mysore.

Yesterday afternoon I stepped off the plane in Bangalore, grabbed my bags and went out into the see of taxi drivers wanting to take me to my destination. I just followed instinct as there were so many of them flocking me. I just went with a trusting face...and off for the 3 + hour ride to Mysore. The road is bumpy, sometimes crowded, under constructions in places, and full of animals and vehicles. I was bouncing around in the back of that cab...but found a way to get some sleep along the way as the fatigue was starting to settle in. Once we got to Mysore, some trouble finding the shala (that's were I was meeting friends), but we finally made it. Saw Saraswati (Guruji's daughter), several westerns students wanderind about, and I met Guruji's driver and security person in front. Chatted with them for about an hour before my friends arrived to show me to my temporary abode. Nice big place with my own room. Eastern and western style toilet for variety, kitchen, ceiling fans. I took my first shower in India (and first in about 3 days...no wonder everyone left me alone in the airport) and felt like a million bucks (not rupees). Very generous of this person to take me in...I think she pays more than I would want to for lodging. We watched a movie on somebody's laptop...or should I say the movie watched me...I was so tired that I must have dozed off half a dozen times during the movie. Met two other people..."Eagle" from Kaui and Kevin (a fixture here in Gokulam) from California...I think. Anyhow, the part that I saw, was good...but I was ready for sleep. As soon as it ended, everyone left and I went right to bed...slept as well as I have in months.


Thursday, October 07, 2004

From inside the Mumbai (BOM) airport

Been on a plane for the last 17 hours or so with a 2.5 hour layover in Zurich...now in Mumbai waiting for my flight to Bangalore, actually on a waiting list for an earlier flight (couple hours), so here I am killing time. I can say that Swiss Air rocks...both flights to this point (each about 8.5 hours) were quite comfortable. Good food and service, and best of all, free booze! Got plenty of sleep on each segment, and even had time to catch the feature films...from Chicago to Zurich it was "Dodgeball" (I'm a sucker for slapstick), and from Zurich to Mumbai it was "Spiderman II"...very cool. Thanks to friends tips on taking earplugs...they came in handy on the Mumbai flight as there were many small children traveling. My seat was in the bulkhead and one little guy seemed to think that my window was for all to use...he only stayed for a short time...wish I could say the same for my stay in this airport!

Off to Bangalore/Mysore tomorrow.

Tuesday, October 05, 2004

Finished Packing...

It's funny how you can think you are packing "minimally" for a trip, but the final product says otherwise. I do know that most of what I'm taking is consumable...so I've got that going for me. Surely I will realize what I could have left behind once I'm in Mysore. Tomorrow is a big day. The next post will likely be from India.

Saturday, October 02, 2004

It's getting close

Well, I've moved everything out of my apartment and into storage...and reality is starting to settle in. Leaving next Wednesday. There is still much to do, but it will all get done somehow. I'm lucky to have such great friends and family...preparation for this trip has gone quite well. Now, I've just got to go.