India Daze

Friday, December 31, 2004

Happy New Year!

Quite hard to get excited about moving into the New Year with all that is happening around us. A few of us decided to just have a nice dinner and good conversation before turning in early.

But there was plenty to do around Kovalam...most beachfront hotels and restaruants had something special going. What blows my mind is that they pushing seafood...proudly displaying fish as their specialty. The reality is, and I know this from some of the locals, is that there is no way the fish can be fresh. With the Tsunami, fishing has been limited, and there have been many, many more power outages (they are a way of life here...just more than usual)...so tell me, how is the fish kept fresh. 'Nuff said.

The noise went well into the evening, complete with fireworks, music, and people yelling. I guess you can't blame the locals...tourism is their livelyhood here, and perhaps a brief escape from all the stuff going on around us was what they needed. Very interesting to be here now.

The "hawkers" (people selling crap) are out in full force already this morning. With tourisms sharply down, there is a real sense of desparation in the air. You see the same hawker many, many times during the day...like maybe you've changed your mind in the last 3 minutes about that really nice cheap sarong, or that maybe you just started smoking within the last 5 minutes. Again, it's their livelyhood...but funny how they work.

I just want everyone to know...especially family...that we are not in any danger over here. This does not, however, take away from the devastation that has occured around us. The death toll continues to rise, and the "after effects" will soon start to settle in. But we are not stranded, we have everything we need and continue to live life (perhaps with a different perspective.), so everything's ok. Thanks so much for your concern. It looks like the world is really coming to the aid of the effected areas.

Well, a happy and safe new year to all. Here's to health, happiness and prosperity in 2005. I miss you all.

Sunday, December 26, 2004

All is well here...

By now you've likely heard about the Earthquake and resulting tsunami's (giant waves) in Asia. The first big quake occurred just off the coast of Sumatra in the Bay of Bengal...and there were many more tremors throughout the day. Inida was hit hard...mainly on the east side of the country (Tamil Nadu, Andrah Pradesh, Orissa), and out in the Andeman and Nicobar Islands. There was loss of life in Kerala, but Kovalam was spared any major damage (although the water came right up to the boardwalk and did damage some shops). Sri Lanka and Thailand were also hit hard. Those poor souls had no idea what was coming...and would have had no time to prepare anyway.

All is well here...for this we are very thankful.

Saturday, December 25, 2004

Christmas Day

Merry Christmas to all...be safe and stay warm (I hear it's really cold back home in Chicago).

Christmas Day here in Kovalam is wild. It is the day when the locals bring their families to the beach. The motor boats are used to take mostly kids out for rides...it's the only time all year long that this is allowed. The beach is absolutely packed with people simply enjoying themselves...the spirit of Christmas is everywhere.

Still more sights and sounds to share...didn't have time to include them all in yesterday's entry.

Like the man from China enjoying himself on the beach yesterday. But he must have forgotten his bathing suit because I swear what he had on were white undies...the really small kind that come in a tube. But that didn't stop him from taking in the whole beach experience...like helping the local fishermen pull in the gigantic net...or just having a walk from one end of lighthouse beach to the other. I thnk he thought everone was just very friendly...smiling at him as he walked by. I think it was more like they were laughing at his beach attire.

Beatles was fun last night...had a nice dinner if lobster, lemon rice, mushroom alu masala, and chipati. Had a primo table upstairs overlooking the beach. The waiter was saying how there are so many fewer people in Kovalam this year...usually the beach and walkway are packed on Christmas Eve. That was hardly the case last night.

As I walked out my door last night, I noticed 3 large turkeys walking around. I've gotten quite used to seeing unusual animals here, but this was a first. The first thing that comes to mind when I see a turkey is stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce...you get the picture. Turns out these guys are the guests of honor for the New Year's Day buffet at Santana Restaurant (next door to me)...wonder if they know. Why don't they run away?

No yoga today or tomorrow...just rest. Be safe and warm on Christmas and the rest of the holiday season.

Friday, December 24, 2004

Twas the day before Christmas...

...and you wouldn't even know it. Just another day on the beach really. Most of the restaurants are having a special dinner, some with entertainment like tradtional indian dance and music. I'm going to have a nice dinner, a few drinks (bad man) and listen to music at a place called Beatles. Have a primo table reserved. Two days off yoga, so I can let loose man! Much needed rest ahead also.

Also, some happening fromthe past week to share.

My neighbors moved out of the hotel a few days back. I knew they were kids (no manners, woke me up several times at 1:30am as they returned from parties...was I like that?), but had now idea they were 19year olds. Turns out they were geography students on assignment...I should have gone to that school. Anyhow, restful nights ahead as they are long gone.

Tomorrow, Christmas day, the manager of my hotel is coming back from a two day visit to his home (he pretty much lives at the hotel) and promised to bring a Keralan specialty called chicken fry. I've pretty much been veggie here (food is so good I don't miss meat, plus, a little worried about refridgeration, etc), but chiken fry is special. They choose and kill the chicken that day, dry rub it with a special Keralan spice mixture (yes, it's spicy!) and slow cook it until the meat falls off the bone. It is served with a gravy that is even spicier than the chicken, and the best bread around called paratha. Can't wait, it will be a nice change of pace.

Saw a near drowning a few days back. Some kid had rented a boogie board and was showing off for his girlfriend. As he was showing off, he realized he was a little too far out...and so did the lifeguards (they were whistling for him to come in). "Just swimming in" isn't quite so easy when you are that far out...the current takes you farther. Several tourists are lost here every year. Anyhow, he somehow made it in without the boogie board he had rented. He was obviously very tired, but still had the energy to act like it was no big deal. He could hardly walk back to his towel. Hope he learned something.

I'll have more to share after Christmas. Wishing everyone a safe and happy holiday season. Miss you all. Cheers!

Sunday, December 19, 2004

What's Happening?

There's enough happening now to share. Sorry it took so long, but I don't want to "blog" just for the sake of "blogging"

Ok, so here in Kovalam, my name is "Mr. Beel" ("Beel" is "Bill with a Malayalam accent). That's fine, I can live with that. But the other day, went to the Lonley Planet restaurant for the first time for breakfast (great reputation, wonderful indian breakfast, very nice surroundings and good music). The waiter comes to the table, looks at me a few times and says "Arnold". "What" I said...he says "Arnold"...the famous filum star in America...you look like". I got a huge laugh out of that and told him to call me Governor Schwarzanegger (sp?). We all laughed again and proceded to finish and incredible breakfast.

That same day at dinner (at "Beatles", a beachfront, 2 tier restaurant that usually plays...you guessed it...The Beatles! Playing other stuff now). Anyhow, I was about to order, and I get that same funny look from the waiter. He looks at me again and says...you guessed it..."Arnold". Now, I don't know if they all talk to each other, or is this was just a cooincidence, or if I really do look like Arnold? Who knows...we had fun with it, now you guys out there can. Go easy on me.

Shoe Man
Was on the beach the other day with friends, and one of the many walking vendors...wallahs, whatever you want to call them, approached us selling shoes. This man was very proud of his work...and rightfully so, he had some nice stuff. Just happened to have something in all of our sizes to try on...gave his pitch and then did the hard sell. We told him "no thanks" maybe some other time. He didn't give up...but finally told us where his shop was and went on down the beach. One of my friends actually went back later that day and bought a pair (I was with), and he again started working on me. I made the mistake of saying "later"...he took it to heart. From that moment on, every time he saw me, I was reminded that I had "promised to come back later". The next morning on the way to breakfast, I purposely took a different route to try and avoid him, and just as I thought about the shoe man, there he was behind me! Had to walk away again. You see, I really was planning to buy a pair, but on my terms. And so I did later that evening. Shoe man was very greatful for the r's 400 that we negotiated. Good deal for both.

Similarly, there are many ladies selling "fruit salad" along the beach. Wherever, you are, you will be approached by at least 6 fruit salad ladies. They seem to have "turf", and when one isn't looking or is busy, the others take advantage. They make wonderful salads...heaping piles of fresh mango, papya, banana, and pineapple with coconut sprinkled on top. Just a little scary are the knives they use and the water they used to clean them (not to mention their hands). Still, I thnk it's worth the risk (you can take your own plate and fork if you like). But once you buy from a particular lady, you are her property. You have become a best friend, or so it seems by the greeting you get everytime you pass by. The remember everyone. Again, worth the r's 40 or so for what you get. Best to do it in the morning...fruit is fresh.

Lino has decided to lead class on Fridays (as long as we can fit everyone in the room). This is a wonderful thing...on Fridays, you are supposed to do only primary series, regardless of what your normal practice is. By leading class, he is giving us many things...counting proper vinyasa, and making sure people do only primary series. This is difficult for many, but it is the right way. Thanks Lino...the best. And I know I wasn't going to talk about yoga...so shoot me.

Hope this is enough to chew on for a while. I'll have more soon. Miss everyone, but not the snow! Please keep the comments coming.

So Sorry....

I know, I've been bad about making posts to this blog. Really, I'm just "saving up" material because there isn't much going on here besides beach, ocean, sun and eating. But not to worry, I've got some interesting material coming. Perhaps tomorrow. Thanks again to all of you for reading...love hearing from you too!

Saturday, December 11, 2004

What one must do to fill the day...

Yesterday was absolutely gorgeous (most days are), and since my friend L had planned to go into Thiruvananthapuram for a movie, I thought it would be nice to rent an umbrella and chair, and hang out on the beach. I found a nice area, and out of nowhere, an umbrella/chair man appeared in front of me. Rupee's 100 later (just over 2 bucks) I was in a nice flattened area of sand, in the shade of my umbrella, sprawled out on a chair, watching people go by to the sound of waves crashing. Soon to join me was one of the many stray dogs in the area, seeking the shade of the chair. He literally squeezed himself underneath and fell fast asleep in seconds. Interestingly enough, he was the only black dog I've seen here...my dog "Bear" is also black.

There are soooo many people selling things here...they walk back and fourth along the beach with cheap sarongs, Kadhe cloths, towels, cashews (in season now, yum!), jewelry, artwork...you name it. And the fruit lady's...seemed like dozens of them selling the same thing. I have to give it to them for thier persistence, but, enough is enough. So, I just pud the ipod earphones in, turned the music up, put my sunglasses on and burried my nose in a book...seemed to take care of it.

Today is a moon day, so no yoga...that's gives us two consecutive days off...seemed like perfect timing as the rest was welcome for me. My usual search for the best coffee in the area brought me to a restaurant called "Fusion". Not only is the "press coffee" fantastic (brought to your table in a french press...you plunge it after a few minutes and enjoy), but the surroundings are pleasant. The restaurant is on the second floor...up and away from the vendors. All you have is a view of the ocean, a nice breeze, good coffee and good food if you like. They cater to westerners, but also offer a full selection of Indian food. It's a nice place to hang after yoga practice.

Just over a week, here, so many more to go, and I'm looking forward to all of it. Thanks for reading...comments welcome!

Tuesday, December 07, 2004

Welcome to Kovalam, Kerala, South India

I'm here, and it's beautiful, and much different from Mysore. I'm in an area known as Lighthouse Beach. It's very tourist oriented...many places to stay, high and low end. I'm in a nice little place near the beach...still the breeze and the sound of the ocean (so nice to fall asleep and wake up to), without the huge price tag. Yes, this place is much more expensive than Mysore, but if you are willing to search a little, you can find the good prices. It's nice to walk up and down the beach, but you are constantly approached by people selling stuff...and usually you will see many selling the same thing. Just something to get used to.

I've been to a couple of movies so far...one ok, the other one much better. I'm still very new to the Indian cinema...the hardest part is sitting through a 3+ hour movie and an intermission...but I will get used to it. Movies are a great way to kill time, because we have plenty of that here. Sitting and looking at the ocean can get boring.

Yoga has started, and it's so good to see Lino. He's one of the true traditional Ashtanga teachers in the world. The space is great...I know I'll enjoy my two months here. And, I look forward to taking some trips from here as well...so much to see in India.

So, that's about it for now...thanks for being patient. I still ove the comments...keep them coming. More to come.