Home Stretch

Yoga with Lino Miele ended yesterday. It was somewhat emotional for me...I've been practicing intensely for the past 4 months...Lino's intensive being over the top hard work. I had the opportunity to say goodbye, then he was off to Mysore that same day. He's had quite a year...lost some people very close to him, so I give him alot of credit for holding it together as he did. I can't wait to see him again soon.

Now, in case you haven't noticed, no blog entries for a week and a half. That's because, very simply, there's nothing to say. I've been compiling a little list of what I will and will not miss about India. I'll post that one sometime before I leave (Feb 14). Until then, not much to say...we'll see.

Take care. All good, positive thoughts to my friends in Chicago going through a difficult time right now. T, L, A-M and N...I'm thinking of you guys always.

More Tamborine Please!

Last night I decided to have dinner at Velvet Dawn...and to my surpise, they had a live music feature! When asked what type of music it would be, the waiter responded "you know, some western some indian"...in other words, bad cover band. Already too crowded in the covered part of the restaurant, I was forced to take a table outside...in the sand...quite nice actually. Hlaf way into dinner the band arrived and started to set up. At first glance, it looked like a trio...guitar, keyboard/drum machine/bass and one other guy. And after about a half an hour set up and a few sound checks, they started. The guitar had sort of an early day Carlos Santana sound...not bad. The keyboard key was responsible for the bas and drum track...then played his keyboard. And the "other guy"...he played tamborine...only the tamborine. He was the entertainment for the night...he was, or was trying to be the center of attention. I couldn't help but think of the Saturday Night Live skit where Will Ferrell was a cow-bell player in a band that was in the recording studio. Don't worry if you haven't seen it...just imagine this tamborine player dancing all over the restaurant...very funny. On top of it all, I saw suglass man (a regular hawker at the beach) in his street clothes (white lungi and short sleeve shirt) in the restaurant enjoying the show. I've always wondered if he works that weird voice only while he's selling sunnnnnnglasssses, or if it's his real voice. I'm her to tell you it's his real voice.

Well, it's extremely hot here...as hot as I've seen it, nothing to do but blog and, if you dare, hang out at the beach. I'm obviously blogging, then off for a nap.
Cheers!

Could It Be That I'm Bored?

Well, maybe a little. Evidence of this is that I have this great interest in sitting at "Velvet Dawn" for my post practice coffee, watching the interaction between the owner and the fresh catch/produce sellers as they walk by. The sellers carry everything on top of their head, and walk up and down the beachfront. The owner will yell to them as they approach, helps them lower the giant containers from their head to the ground, and inspects the goods. If he likes them, there is negotiation...usually not without some argument. I imagine certain restaurant owners have more "pull" with these folks, and are therefore first in line for the best fresh(it's all realative) fish and produce. These are the places you want to be.

Velvet dawn is also a good people watching spot. Many beach goers hit the sand early...like 8:30am, as they are very territorial about where their chair and umbrella go. Today, there was a thong bikini that had no business being on the person it was on. I don't know, maybe it wasn't a thong, but a regular bikini bottom being gobbled up before my very eyes. No chance of saving it.

Next big decision is...where to eat dinner and at what time (since I already know where I'm going for breakfast). Timing is critical if you plan to go "off beach" as there are usually many mosquitoes that come out right around dusk...and they love westerner blood.

Am I bored? Not really, India is an amazing place, I'm just taking it all in.
Hey, at least I'm warm!

Comments welcome

Just As Good Second Time

One of the movies I really liked, Swades (pronounced Sw-odd-ess) was still playing in Trivandrum, so Bindi decided to see it again, and to take our friend Scott along (first hindi filum) as well. Movies are nice once in a while...a good way to kill time, and a real bonus to sit in air conditioning for 3+ hours. And when the film is good, time flys. I won't go into detail about the film...you can learn more online (www.swades.com). Incredible movie...see it if you can.
Following the movie, we stopped for chicken fry (fresh, and I mean fresh chicken slow cooked, then dry rubbed with a Keralan spice mix and fried for a few minutes, served with bread called parotha), this a real treat if you can take the heat. Sorry veggie heads...forgive me if you can.

Things are thinning out here post-holiday...but not the hawkers. We were triple teamed today at one point...cheap sarongs, bed covers, and drums all at once...couldn't even walk forward. At this point, the only hawkers I care about are the cashew man (has one real arm and one prosthetic arm)...he carries the corrugated box with 500 gram bags of cashews...plain/raw, salted, and masala/spicy). Yestereday he had a bright orange long sleeve shirt on...couldn't miss him. I also enjoy the suglass man...purely entertainment. "Sunglassssssssssses, reading glasssssses?" he says in this high pitched, very unique voice. He's very cool, I'll try to get a picture to share when I return. I did buy a towel form towel man...now he just passes buy and says "you ok?" and gives the thumbs up. These people have just become part of everyday life...I'll probably miss it when I leave. OK, maybe not.

Lonley Planet is still the main eating place. Went back to an old (like a month) favorite, "Fusion", for the presspot coffee and sundowner fruit drink, and decided to order this great breakfast dish with a rice pancake topped with a muchroom smabar and another with poached eggs (bad ashtangi). Well, the eggs came half cooked...and no I did not eat them. Decided it was best to stick with the coffee and juice there...save the food for Lonely Planet.

For the yogi's and yogini's, January marks the beginning of the "second session" with Lino. Seems to be more people around, but we are still treated to the led primary series class on Fridays...the room is packed with everyone, and Lino leads us as only he can do. A tresure indeed. And more assistants have arrived to handle the larger classes. We are lucky to have all of these people helping us.

I hear there is alot of snow coming back home in Chicago...and in Michigan for that matter. To everyone there, stay warm and healthy. Keep the comments coming!

Back to "Sort of Normal"...

I say that because it won't be "normal" around here for some time. What happened 8 days ago has changed this area of the world forever...the relief effort has only begun.

In Kovalam, the beach has re-opened, people are swimming, and the energy around here has subsided a bit from the New Year holiday. This is supposedly "peak" vacation season, but as the locals would say, things were quite down this year. The beaches have definately been more crowded the last couple of days, but starting today, there will be many people leaving. The porters are working the hotel areas looking to help people carry their bags (very necessary around here), and I'm sure the rickshaw and taxi drivers are backed up and ready to take people to the airport or railway station. Tensions are a little high with the umbrella and beachchair walla's as they fight over "turf".

Another sign that things are startng to return to normal is that I witnessed another swimming rescue. I imagine this happens every year...vacationers with little respect for the mighty Inidan Ocean get caught in the undertow. This time there were three swimmers getting pulled out to sea. From the beach you could actually see the undertow...it pulls sand from the bottom as it moves outward, and these people went out too far and couldn't get back in. They were not drowning or anything, but they were surely tiring as they tried to get back in. Five lifeguards swam out and guided them in to saftey.

I'm spending alot of time in one particulare restaurant called Lonely Planet. They have the best food by far that I've had, it is very safe for westerners, and they people are very nice. This is an easy choice becasue I've been sick and would rather not have it happen again. Plus I've tried many of the places along the beach...right now there's no reason to go anywhere else. Boring you say? Better than being up all night sitting on the toilet with a bucket in front of you.

Another Chicagoan, Scott, has arrived. Scott is also a fellow Michigander...we grew up in the same area of lower Michigan...the "thumb" area. Hold your right hand up in front of you with the thumb pointing right...that's it! The thumb area is where your right thumb is. Scott is here for a month studying with Lino...he's sure to experience big changes in body and mind...all for the better.

New Year's day was a real treat. Bindi was invited to a traditional Keralan meal at the house of the General Manager of her hotel...and she was allowed to bring two friends. How lucky am I? This man is a retired Colonel in the Indian army. We were treated to the real thing...(actually I don't think the beer he served before the meal was traditional). Anyhow, we sat on the floor, and the food was served on a banana leaf. Six or seven different foods, mainly vegetarian (the exception being the prawns), are placed on the perimeter of the leaf, and white Keralan rice placed in the middle. You eat with your right hand, taking parts of any of the dishes and mixing them with rice before popping it into your mouth. All I can say was that the meal was exceptional...and I felt very lucky to have experienced it. The Colonel and his wife were the best of hosts. To top it off, as we ate, thier house was being used to film a popular Keralan TV series (his house is used regularly for this)...we were able to watch much of the action. Lights, camera and people all over the place. Very memorable indeed. Thanks Bindi.

Hope everyone's New Year has gotten off to a good start. Be well, safe and healthy.